Wednesday, June 17, 2015

#25 June 3 - June 16

 June 3rd 4th and 5th we traveled through beautiful marshlands, with some villages scattered in between. Encountered shrimpers, crab boats, local folks enjoying the water. On the 3rd we grounded (didn't stay between the bouys) but two passing sport boats set us to rocking and we managed to get afloat again; about 20 minutes.  It does happen!
 Had a squall tonight. the 4th.
I have been taking pics of the skies. Ever changing.
At Calabash Creek anchorage a Shrimper came in and ran his boat ashore. We couldn't figure out what he was doing.  He proceeded to stow all his outlying gear.

Tucked it all in backed off the shore and proceeded up the little side creek to his berth.

Another beautiful sky.  Got to thinking that we just do not take time to look up sometimes and see the beautiful artistry that Mother Nature provides.

We were traveling along and came upon another Nordic Tug 32.  1984 hull number 1. Nice folks, Tonia and John Britian. We were both heading for Wilmington but there were NO slips available; so we stopped in Carolina Beach and picked up moorings.  We all went ashore for supper at a local diner and got back just in time to enjoy a raucous Thunderstorm that lasted all of 45 minustes.
 June 7 we arrived in Wilmington at Seapath Marina for fuel, pumpout and hopefully a slip for 2 days. I had called a few days ahead and there was no "room at the inn". Fortunately, a boat had just left and the young dock attendant was very helpful as we maneuvered into the slip. Our main reason for stopping in Wilmington was to catch up with friends Bob and Nancy Rudary. Old sailing friends from our time at Bridgeview many years ago when our kids were young.
They have changed little and we had a great time reliving the best of the past. They are well and enjoying there home and life in Wilmington NC.

On up the waterway on the 10th of June.  Did someone say PINK?

We passed through Camp Lajune. Anchored with in the camp at Hammock Bay but was not allowed to go ashore. We observed some drills of all sorts. This one was hoisting BIG outboards onto their inflatable craft. Wonder if they had to blow those things up also. 

We passed a big sign stating if the "yellow lights are flashing - - do not enter!" It was a live firing area and there were various burned, shelled, skeletons of  equipment strewn about.
 June 10th we arrived Beaufort NC. Searched for an anchorage among all the boats on private mooring balls. found a perfect 8  ft spot and told Bill to drop the anchor and in a flash it went to 3 ft and I screamed NO! STOP! we were aground. Everything was calm, Bill hollered "Are we aground?"
"Yes" --  "Are we AGROUND?"  --  "YES, we are!!!"  Fortunately tide was o n the rise and we wiggled and backed off promptly. But evidently we jammed mud into our little speed paddle indicator and we haven't had speed readouts since.
We anchored next to this little beauty! Wondered if you think we should trade up?

Talk about trading up!!  There were no slips available in Beaufort as the Blue Rock Marlin Tournament was in town.  Magnificent Sport Fishing Vessels were everywhere. This particular one is brand new, finished just two weeks before. 62 foot. She and her crew were the leaders in the tournament with a fine catch, a 680 lb Blue Marlin.  Check out Blue Rock Marlin Tournament online - - - there are pictures!  By the way this boat is for sale - - Are you ready?
$5.2 million


 June 11, 12, 13 We traeled the ICW twisting and turning in the creeks to breakout into the open waters of the Sounds - - Alligator River, Pungo Sound and Albamarle Sound and finally arriving in Elizabeth City. Free dock! For all the hype about "Hospitality Harbor" this was a classic example of 'you get what you pay for'. The visitor center, closed; museum, closed; no water, no electricity, no showers or bathrooms. It is a very quiet little town and seems somewhat depressed. Half the store fronts were vacant and for sale. The biggest industry is the Blimp manufacturing facility we saw as we traveled toward the town.  There were two blimps, tethered outside their great GREAT BBIIGG hangar.  Nope, I didn't get a picture.  They were the type of blimps that are tethered over the Keys, "watching". And various other locations around the country.  Would have taken a tour but -- not allowed!
Albamarle Sound. We were getting a little spoiled with the protection of the creeks and canals.


Here we are in Pungo Canal. 22 miles, mostly straight as an arrow. Here we met a tow. and this canal is narrower than anything we encountered on the big rivers last year. A little communication with the Tug and all went well.
This is approx 5 miles from Elizabeth city at the top of Albermarle  Sound. Obiously a prediction of what was to come. We made it in time to be secure when the storm hit. Our experience has been the storms are wild, high winds, hard rains that last for not more than 45 minutes. The white line in the picture is actually the tide line rising.

Leaving Elizabeth City behind we enter the Dismal Swamp.



There are two locks at either end to control a depth 8 ft higher than surrounding creeks and rivers.  The canal is fed by Drummond Lake. in the center of the swamp.  In the 1700's George Washington had shares in a consortium that intended to build this canal, drain the swamp  and clear it for farming.  He became disenchanted with the idea and sold out when the farming issue was not possible.  But, others pushed on, and made their fortunes in harvesting the cedar and juniper timber for its resistance to rot.  The canal was initially dug by hand by thousands of slaves. There are 38 miles of  arrow straight canal and you can see how narrow it is.


Halfway through there was a very nice dock. Actually a rest stop for boats built at the Highway 17 (runs along side the canal for several miles) Visitors Center Rest Stop. A truck driver came down to take a picture of the "Boat Rest Stop" thought it was a unique idea. The sailboat we met with Tony and Ann, and their guests (from London, England) William and Francis planned on spending the night here and invited us to share a bbq and Sundowners with them. We had a great time sharing stories and we gleaning information from them about things to see on the Chesapeake. We will meet up with them again at their home port of Herrington Harbor in a few days time.

Leaving North Carolina
Little did we know at the time, but this barge was let past all the other boats waiting for the North Lock to enter first to tie up securely before we all entered.  A sailboat we hooked up with at the Visitor Center gave us a tip that there was a dock (room for one boat) just before the Lock. It was very close to a grocery right across the street. We rafted off them and we all did our provisioning. What a great tip, as when  we exit the swamp it is difficult to get to groceries at any of the ports without a courtesy car or taxi.

What a culture shock when we exited the Dismal Swamp. Immediately thrown into a different world of Big industry, shipping docks, dry docks for refits, and almost every one of those was occupied by some form of Navy warship.I got myself in trouble -- as we passed the grand old aircraft carrier Eisenhower, I took pictures. About 5 minutes later a Navy Security boat came along side and said, "We were called and told you were taking pictures". Whoa! He asked that we take NO MORE pictures of Military Assets! For that reason I am not posting any pictures of our great Navy.  By the way, I think the entire fleet is in port getting some sort of work done.
from swamp to

one of the largest Industrial and ship dock yards in the country.
 June 16th As we left Norfolk (Mile 0 of the ICW) up the Elizabeth River to the opening of the Chesapeake Bay we had the strangest sensation - - we were back home cruising our Great Lakes. We traveled up about 50 miles to an anchorage on the West shore of the Bay just south of Deltaville.

So far this month we have had quite a few milestones accomplished.  We traversed the entire ICW, We traversed the Dismal Swamp with it's unique kind of beauty and The tenth of June  marked one year that our daughter Wendi dropped us off in Sturgeon Bay, WI where we moved aboard this boat. and we are not tired of it yet. Doesn't seem possible!

Wednesday, June 3, 2015

#24 May 26 - June 3

May 26th, see the black dot? That's us on our way in the twisty turny ICW to Savannah. And below, tied to the River Street Market Dock in downtown Savannah.





and right next to us huge ships ply the river to and from the Ocean.

Port of Savannah is the 3rd busiest port in the U.S. Just surpassed New York recently.

I mean, one after another!  

Many streets in Old Savannah are cobblestone, stone that had been used as ballast in ships.

River Street on the waterfront early in the morning before the throngs arrived.

Stairway to the top of the Bluff from River Street. 18th Century.

Sandra arrived around 5pm and after a bit we hit our first restaurant.  That is Alligator Tail Appetizer we are trying!  Actually, pretty good! I would order again.
We thoroughly enjoyed Savannah. Took the "on/off Trolley tour" all way round once then again getting off at several points of interest such as the Cathedral of St. John and Savannah Museum. The tour we took also incorporated many 'in character" characters that boarded the bus to give us just alittle more history, Eli Whitney, inventor of the cotton gin; Duchess Penelope, shipping magnates wife who now haunts her old Mansion, and Forrest Gump.
Forrest said that Savannah was like a box of chocolates, you never knew what but there was always some 'nuts'.
'
Don Gordon and son, came by several times while they were visiting Savannah and we all went to dinner at the Crab Shack out in the low country.  Dined outside under magnificent live Oaks.

Sandi enjoying a "Low-country Boil". That is a crayfish she is holding. We sat around a big round table with a hole in the middle with a garbage can under. Shells, peels, papers, empties - - all into the hole.  There were several little sinks strategically placed around for diners to wash their hands after manhandling their food!   Fun!!  Good too!!

Good group!
May 29th we traveled about 15 miles to Hilton Head.  Wow! Great vacation spot. Very well done and very tourist friendly. What was nice that even though there were all the "shops", gift, craft, art, etc it was all tastefully presented.  Lots of Rocking Chairs under the great Oaks, perfectly groomed landscaping, fabulous beaches.

May 30th we pushed on to Beaufort, SC which turned out to be our favorite town. Quiet, pristine, little village; just what our minds pictured as the perfect Southern village. We walked the waterfront park, then downtown for ice cream.  As in all stops along this part of the country there are beautifully restored homes and mansions


Sandi and I are ready to ride around Beaufort.
May 31st we left and encountered our shallowest water yet on the entire trip.  Of course we left at almost low tide. Syraca IV, pictured above, left before us.  We caught up with her at the entrance to a very narrow cutoff of the ICW.   She hard aground, with her tender (almost as big as our boat) working at freeing her from the mud. We were able to skim past her and even Bill was afraid we with our 3' 9" draft would ground.  Fortunately, we did not!  Not fun for Syraca, but fun for us to watch her progress over our chart Nav AIS tracking system.  She got off and anchored til the next day when the tide was up.  We just traveled 20 miles this day and anchored in a tributary before moving on to Charleston on the 1st.of June.
Charleston Trolley ride to the Maritime Center Park, Just a swingin'

Sandra and Dad with the aircraft carrier Yorktowne just off Bill's left shoulder moored at Patriot Point across the Cooper River. As you can see, Another Beautiful Day!
On the 2nd we took a combo Magnolia Plantation/City Tour. The Plantation portion was fascinating. Over 600 acres of rice paddies, fresh and brackish water ponds, teeming with alligators, ducks, birds, turtles, cypress trees and formal gardens with paths.As with all these old places, it used to be more than 2000 acres,  The following pics are from that portion. The peacocks wanted to have lunch with us.

Hundred years ago this plank was placed. 


Small alligator on the ramp, both trees rookeries for the water birds.
City Tour was informative.
These houses were shops on the bottom with proprietors quarters above. All different colors dating back centuries.

Lovely handmade wrought ironwork.

Bill and I shared a supper - Shrimp and Grits, a must have when in Georgia and South Carolina. Delicious, a little spicey but GOOD and the Grits were smooth and creamy. NOT like any other grits I have every had. 
This dinner was at the Restaurant, "Prohibition", where Mirands's boyfriend Michael manages. It is unique in many ways. Basically, an Irish Pub with a modern twist. They serve wild game also, really big here in Charleston.  The bar tenders are the best in the city and mix innumerable libations with various flavored infused spirits.  We had strawberry infused rum Mojito. Two!  Sandi figures it is a great drink for around a pool on a warm summer day. I say it is a great drink ANYTIME!!!!  Tell your friends - Prohibition is a must stop in Charleston.

Today is the 3rd of June, Sandra has left for home and we are awaiting the wind to settle before heading North up the ICW.  Myrtle Beach and Wilmington NC our next ports, with a few anchorages in between.




















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Monday, May 25, 2015

#23 May 7th - May 25th

Of course while we were home for two weeks we attended Olivia Leonardi's college graduation on April 26th. This is the same little girl that played with dolls on the front of our sailboat so many years ago when she was 6 years old. So many memories ago. And now she is grown and eagerly looking forward to a very successful life.  


May 7th we returned to Cape Canavarel. We managed to get the bottom painted, the hull cleaned and waxed from the gunnels to the waterline, replaced zincs on the hull and the engine block, biked all around the area, visited friends and tried almost all the restaurants. 

Remember this view?  From our friends 4th floor Condo.  We have looked around the area, and others, and this looks pretty good. Lots of activities always going on around the Cape, Never anymore big developments possible, Traffic not bad. Big Park close, biking trails, fishing pier, good restaurants, space launches occasionally, excellent marina nearby.  We shall see.

Visited this local establishment, Good fun, Good Beer and the neat thing about the place you can bring your own food, sit around and play cards or a number of other games they have around. Of course all while drinking beer
Also you may become very well versed in the fine attributes of BEER!
Ha! Didn't know that!

Just a simple modification by the famous Parker Brothers!

Just down the road from the Marina.
May 17th we cast off to the fuel dock to load our bikes that we couldn't do at the short finger dock and left for the Canavarel Lock toward the Intercoastal waterway. While in the lock I realized I had forgot the load of laundry in the dryer.  Bill said "What?" I said "Yeah, you heard me." So we turned around right in the lock and went back the other way.  The Lockmaster just shook his head! All was well and it was "Another Beautiful Day"
We arrived in St. Augustine, Florida on the 18th and stayed 3 nights. That beautiful city is celebrating their 450th anniversary of the founding when Don Pedro Menendez de Aviles, Father Francisco Lopez and their crew landed and conducted the first Catholic Mass in what would become the United States of America. St. Augustine is the oldest city in the U.S.

Bucco and his friend on the water taxi into the city from our mooring.
Castillo de San Marcos

Spanash began construction in 1672, 23 yrs to complete, never taken in battle in spite of wars, invasions and pirate attacks. Primarily because it was constructed entirely out of coquina stone, a mix of  shell fragments and quartz grains, that is soft and easy to cut but hard when cured in the sun. This makes cannon balls sink into, rather than shatter the walls of the fort.


By the way, every day was ABD!

This is coquina stone.  All the old houses, walls, gates of the city, fort, made of this material. Still strong and lasting as in Centuries past.




The entire city was once surrounded by a walls of coquina and also log outer walls. This gate is the only entrance and was a draw bridge.
Huguenot Cemetary1821-1884 Legend has it that many expressions we use today originated here. "Dead Ringer" (bell tied to a string above ground in case the "deceased" was buried alive) and when they were dug up they were "Saved by the Bell"

This beautiful old Live Oak is called the Senator because he is bent, crooked and shady!
Just one of the many churches that Henry Flagler build in honor of his deceased daughter and her infant daughter. You should really look up Henry Morrison Flagler. Partner with J. D. Rockefeller in the founding of Standard Oil; builder of magnificent Hotels all up and down the East Coast of Florida and the Railroad from  St. Augustine to Key West to bring the people to fill the hotels.  Of course, these accomplishments literally grew Florida.

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Yep, we had to visit the distillary. Their Gin and Vodka were ready but we have to wait til 2016 for the Bourbon. We didn't miss the winery either. Another must see in St. Augustine is the Lightner Museum.  Mr. Lightner was a collector of collections. Sorry, no picture, but it was a very interesting place.  We thought we would be in and out and actually spent the entire afternoon there.

This is our mooring just after sunset in St. Augustine.
May 21st finds us on our way to Amelia Island and Fernandina Beach. A lovely resort town and Island. Great Place to visit. Maybe live!! Ha! The Beach is beautiful, not overdone Condo sites, Quaint village and fascinating Olde Towne.

Fabulous home along the way. Just when we think of downsizing. . . . . . . . ??? What were they thinking?

Anybody see the movie "Pippi Longstocking"?  Here is her house right in Fernandina beach!

Horatio enjoyed the trolley tour also.

May 23rd, Bill and Emma's Birthday! we crossed the Georgia Florida border at 8:25am. The terrain and passage took on a completely different look. Miles and miles of salt Marsh and twisty turny rivers and creeks. St. Andrew Sound Inlet was the first inlet that gave us any kind of trouble. There were 15 to 20 knot winds, 4 ft seas on the nose for the 5 miles we needed to cross. The boat handled it well as did we - - but it was exciting!  Horatio plastered himself against Bill's side til we were in the calmer waters of the ICW. We actually anchored off Jekyll Island for an hour, had lunch and rested!
This is Hampton River Anchorage - right in the Marshes. For some reason INSECTS love me!! Just take me along on your camping trips as repellent and you won't get bit. So I sprayed myself, thank heaven the wind was pretty strong. Strange, the tide and current was stronger than the  wind - - -  the stern is into the wind.  Grilled steak tonight!  Yumm!
Cattle Run Creek, last night's anchorage.

We had to get out of his way on the twisty turny.

And this is where Horatio likes to be when we are underway.

We are at the moment anchored in St. Augustine, Georgia just 11 miles from Savannah. Looking forward to daughter Sandra joining us for a few days til we get to Charleston, SC. Don Gordon and son are going to meet up with us also while they are visiting Savannah. Don and April caught up with us in Tavanier, FL a while back.
So, there you have it.  Hope I am a little better about posting from now on.  But, I have had some picture downloading, backing up, internet issues. Technologically Challanged! I know, excuses, excuses!!