#26 June 17 - June 25th

June 16th traveling up the Chesapeake, as I said previously, was like sailing the Great Lakes at home. We ducked into a cove just south of Deltaville VA just before a strong squall rolled over us. Turned the sky black for about 40 minutes, thunder, lightening, rain. Then the sun came out and we enjoyed a pleasant evening on the back deck.  

June 17th we arrived in Tangier Island VA. An Island still lingering in the 40's. Trying desparately to preserve their heritage from the Elizabethan era. Strong element of watermen and their crab shacks, clamming etc.  The canal leading into the Island was lined with these crab shacks and docks.  Some in excellent repair, some in various stages of disintegration.

We had planned on docking here for the night, especially when we saw Restless Spirit, whom we met in Carolina Beach, was docked there.  Also another Nordic 37.  A couple of gentlemen came to help with our lines but the current was so strong we could not maneuver the boat into the slip. After several tries we abandoned the idea and headed for the next Island 10 miles North. Smith Island Maryland proved to be a much better landing option.  We were able to tie up to a face dock. Smith Island is very similar to Tangier, but, holds the distinction of being the ONLY inhabitated island in Maryland. Smith is a little more into the present in that they have a Verizon cell tower.  Some tourists we talked to when we arrived 3pm said everything was closed. In spite of brochure stating 4pm closures.  Museum, Restaurant, Visitor center - - no townspeople around zippo! Strange.  We spent a quiet night and continued on to the Solomons on the 18th.

Solomon Island proved to be a contrast to Smith Island, Many marinas and thousands of boats. We picked up a mooring around 3pm deployed the dinghy and tooled around the harbor after paying our fee at the office.  It is within an hour and half of Washington DC and environs. The perfect getaway from the hustle bustle of the city. 

Around 4pm the sky went dark again - - yep, yet another severe squall rolled over us. Thunder, Lightning, Rain and howling wind. By 5 the sun is out, clearing and creating this rainbow on the retreating rain

On the 19th the three of us went to breakfast in town. The brought Horatio his own menu. Quite a selection - - even "pooched eggs"!

Then off to the Museum. Don't ask me how I got this black and white picture of the Museum's lighthouse moved here from 4 miles on the point entrance from the Bay. two areas of interest covered was the unique design of fishing boats over the years and the archaeological finds from the cliffs of the are dating back some 23 million years. Fascinating!

June 19, oldest Daughters Birthday brings us to Herrington Harbor, MD. We were amazed - - the largest marina we have ever seen. Very well run, clean, accommodating and every amenity. Friends on Stella Maris we met on the Dismal Swamp Canal suggested we might enjoy this marina.  This picture was taken as we walked on the bricked path from one end of the marina to about the middle where the pool complex was located (white tent). We had been invited to their annual Dock party. Wine, fresh oysters, two meats, gumbo, salad and desert. 

Yep! The evenings festivities ended with another brewing Thunderstorm. This too, passed quickly. 

June 21st We are truly impressed with this marina and all the services it provides. It is a full service repair yard as well as storage long term and Marina.  For some time we have been speaking of maybe terminating our Loop trip for this year and putting the boat up on the hard for storage this winter. We would then return in the late spring and continue at a leisurely pace going North through the Champlain canal, St. Lawrence, Montreal, Ottawa, the Canadian Historic Canals, Georgian Bay and eventually crossing our wake in Detour, MI where we started on July 13,2014.
This is the end of June already -- we would have to really have to push to finish before the weather ccloses in.

So, that's what we are going to do. We feel bad to have taken a little cruise a way from our daughter Terri, but we will make that right next spring.  We rented a car, drove to Terri's in Wilmington and spending a few days with her before going back to the boat and have Simpatico Hauled out. We will have to strip her of any liquids that might freeze and arrange for the yard to winterize and shrink wrap her. It does bring a tear to my eye to be stopping this great adventure - but it is only temporary.

Besides, we have plenty to do at home to get the house ready to sell, get it listed and take care of things that that whole business entails.

As you can see Horatio is enjoying a renewed acquaintance with his cousins Charlie and . . . 

Baxter.

This will be the last Blog for a while. You  might check back again after the snow melts in Michigan; I am sure we will be antsy to get on the move again.  Love to all, Connie and Bill

#25 June 3 - June 16

 June 3rd 4th and 5th we traveled through beautiful marshlands, with some villages scattered in between. Encountered shrimpers, crab boats, local folks enjoying the water. On the 3rd we grounded (didn't stay between the bouys) but two passing sport boats set us to rocking and we managed to get afloat again; about 20 minutes.  It does happen!
 Had a squall tonight. the 4th.
I have been taking pics of the skies. Ever changing.

At Calabash Creek anchorage a Shrimper came in and ran his boat ashore. We couldn't figure out what he was doing.  He proceeded to stow all his outlying gear.

Tucked it all in backed off the shore and proceeded up the little side creek to his berth.

Another beautiful sky.  Got to thinking that we just do not take time to look up sometimes and see the beautiful artistry that Mother Nature provides.

We were traveling along and came upon another Nordic Tug 32.  1984 hull number 1. Nice folks, Tonia and John Britian. We were both heading for Wilmington but there were NO slips available; so we stopped in Carolina Beach and picked up moorings.  We all went ashore for supper at a local diner and got back just in time to enjoy a raucous Thunderstorm that lasted all of 45 minustes.

 June 7 we arrived in Wilmington at Seapath Marina for fuel, pumpout and hopefully a slip for 2 days. I had called a few days ahead and there was no "room at the inn". Fortunately, a boat had just left and the young dock attendant was very helpful as we maneuvered into the slip. Our main reason for stopping in Wilmington was to catch up with friends Bob and Nancy Rudary. Old sailing friends from our time at Bridgeview many years ago when our kids were young.

They have changed little and we had a great time reliving the best of the past. They are well and enjoying there home and life in Wilmington NC.

On up the waterway on the 10th of June.  Did someone say PINK?

We passed through Camp Lajune. Anchored with in the camp at Hammock Bay but was not allowed to go ashore. We observed some drills of all sorts. This one was hoisting BIG outboards onto their inflatable craft. Wonder if they had to blow those things up also. 

We passed a big sign stating if the "yellow lights are flashing - - do not enter!" It was a live firing area and there were various burned, shelled, skeletons of  equipment strewn about.

 June 10th we arrived Beaufort NC. Searched for an anchorage among all the boats on private mooring balls. found a perfect 8  ft spot and told Bill to drop the anchor and in a flash it went to 3 ft and I screamed NO! STOP! we were aground. Everything was calm, Bill hollered "Are we aground?"
"Yes" --  "Are we AGROUND?"  --  "YES, we are!!!"  Fortunately tide was o n the rise and we wiggled and backed off promptly. But evidently we jammed mud into our little speed paddle indicator and we haven't had speed readouts since.

We anchored next to this little beauty! Wondered if you think we should trade up?

Talk about trading up!!  There were no slips available in Beaufort as the Blue Rock Marlin Tournament was in town.  Magnificent Sport Fishing Vessels were everywhere. This particular one is brand new, finished just two weeks before. 62 foot. She and her crew were the leaders in the tournament with a fine catch, a 680 lb Blue Marlin.  Check out Blue Rock Marlin Tournament online - - - there are pictures!  By the way this boat is for sale - - Are you ready?
$5.2 million

 June 11, 12, 13 We traeled the ICW twisting and turning in the creeks to breakout into the open waters of the Sounds - - Alligator River, Pungo Sound and Albamarle Sound and finally arriving in Elizabeth City. Free dock! For all the hype about "Hospitality Harbor" this was a classic example of 'you get what you pay for'. The visitor center, closed; museum, closed; no water, no electricity, no showers or bathrooms. It is a very quiet little town and seems somewhat depressed. Half the store fronts were vacant and for sale. The biggest industry is the Blimp manufacturing facility we saw as we traveled toward the town.  There were two blimps, tethered outside their great GREAT BBIIGG hangar.  Nope, I didn't get a picture.  They were the type of blimps that are tethered over the Keys, "watching". And various other locations around the country.  Would have taken a tour but -- not allowed!

Albamarle Sound. We were getting a little spoiled with the protection of the creeks and canals.

Here we are in Pungo Canal. 22 miles, mostly straight as an arrow. Here we met a tow. and this canal is narrower than anything we encountered on the big rivers last year. A little communication with the Tug and all went well.

This is approx 5 miles from Elizabeth city at the top of Albermarle  Sound. Obiously a prediction of what was to come. We made it in time to be secure when the storm hit. Our experience has been the storms are wild, high winds, hard rains that last for not more than 45 minutes. The white line in the picture is actually the tide line rising.

Leaving Elizabeth City behind we enter the Dismal Swamp.

There are two locks at either end to control a depth 8 ft higher than surrounding creeks and rivers.  The canal is fed by Drummond Lake. in the center of the swamp.  In the 1700's George Washington had shares in a consortium that intended to build this canal, drain the swamp  and clear it for farming.  He became disenchanted with the idea and sold out when the farming issue was not possible.  But, others pushed on, and made their fortunes in harvesting the cedar and juniper timber for its resistance to rot.  The canal was initially dug by hand by thousands of slaves. There are 38 miles of  arrow straight canal and you can see how narrow it is.

Halfway through there was a very nice dock. Actually a rest stop for boats built at the Highway 17 (runs along side the canal for several miles) Visitors Center Rest Stop. A truck driver came down to take a picture of the "Boat Rest Stop" thought it was a unique idea. The sailboat we met with Tony and Ann, and their guests (from London, England) William and Francis planned on spending the night here and invited us to share a bbq and Sundowners with them. We had a great time sharing stories and we gleaning information from them about things to see on the Chesapeake. We will meet up with them again at their home port of Herrington Harbor in a few days time.

Leaving North Carolina

Little did we know at the time, but this barge was let past all the other boats waiting for the North Lock to enter first to tie up securely before we all entered.  A sailboat we hooked up with at the Visitor Center gave us a tip that there was a dock (room for one boat) just before the Lock. It was very close to a grocery right across the street. We rafted off them and we all did our provisioning. What a great tip, as when  we exit the swamp it is difficult to get to groceries at any of the ports without a courtesy car or taxi.

What a culture shock when we exited the Dismal Swamp. Immediately thrown into a different world of Big industry, shipping docks, dry docks for refits, and almost every one of those was occupied by some form of Navy warship.I got myself in trouble -- as we passed the grand old aircraft carrier Eisenhower, I took pictures. About 5 minutes later a Navy Security boat came along side and said, "We were called and told you were taking pictures". Whoa! He asked that we take NO MORE pictures of Military Assets! For that reason I am not posting any pictures of our great Navy.  By the way, I think the entire fleet is in port getting some sort of work done.

from swamp to

one of the largest Industrial and ship dock yards in the country.

 June 16th As we left Norfolk (Mile 0 of the ICW) up the Elizabeth River to the opening of the Chesapeake Bay we had the strangest sensation - - we were back home cruising our Great Lakes. We traveled up about 50 miles to an anchorage on the West shore of the Bay just south of Deltaville.

So far this month we have had quite a few milestones accomplished.  We traversed the entire ICW, We traversed the Dismal Swamp with it's unique kind of beauty and The tenth of June  marked one year that our daughter Wendi dropped us off in Sturgeon Bay, WI where we moved aboard this boat. and we are not tired of it yet. Doesn't seem possible!

#24 May 26 - June 3

May 26th, see the black dot? That's us on our way in the twisty turny ICW to Savannah. And below, tied to the River Street Market Dock in downtown Savannah.

and right next to us huge ships ply the river to and from the Ocean.

Port of Savannah is the 3rd busiest port in the U.S. Just surpassed New York recently.

I mean, one after another!  

Many streets in Old Savannah are cobblestone, stone that had been used as ballast in ships.

River Street on the waterfront early in the morning before the throngs arrived.

Stairway to the top of the Bluff from River Street. 18th Century.

Sandra arrived around 5pm and after a bit we hit our first restaurant.  That is Alligator Tail Appetizer we are trying!  Actually, pretty good! I would order again.

We thoroughly enjoyed Savannah. Took the "on/off Trolley tour" all way round once then again getting off at several points of interest such as the Cathedral of St. John and Savannah Museum. The tour we took also incorporated many 'in character" characters that boarded the bus to give us just alittle more history, Eli Whitney, inventor of the cotton gin; Duchess Penelope, shipping magnates wife who now haunts her old Mansion, and Forrest Gump.

Forrest said that Savannah was like a box of chocolates, you never knew what but there was always some 'nuts'.

'

Don Gordon and son, came by several times while they were visiting Savannah and we all went to dinner at the Crab Shack out in the low country.  Dined outside under magnificent live Oaks.

Sandi enjoying a "Low-country Boil". That is a crayfish she is holding. We sat around a big round table with a hole in the middle with a garbage can under. Shells, peels, papers, empties - - all into the hole.  There were several little sinks strategically placed around for diners to wash their hands after manhandling their food!   Fun!!  Good too!!

Good group!

May 29th we traveled about 15 miles to Hilton Head.  Wow! Great vacation spot. Very well done and very tourist friendly. What was nice that even though there were all the "shops", gift, craft, art, etc it was all tastefully presented.  Lots of Rocking Chairs under the great Oaks, perfectly groomed landscaping, fabulous beaches.

May 30th we pushed on to Beaufort, SC which turned out to be our favorite town. Quiet, pristine, little village; just what our minds pictured as the perfect Southern village. We walked the waterfront park, then downtown for ice cream.  As in all stops along this part of the country there are beautifully restored homes and mansions

Sandi and I are ready to ride around Beaufort.

May 31st we left and encountered our shallowest water yet on the entire trip.  Of course we left at almost low tide. Syraca IV, pictured above, left before us.  We caught up with her at the entrance to a very narrow cutoff of the ICW.   She hard aground, with her tender (almost as big as our boat) working at freeing her from the mud. We were able to skim past her and even Bill was afraid we with our 3' 9" draft would ground.  Fortunately, we did not!  Not fun for Syraca, but fun for us to watch her progress over our chart Nav AIS tracking system.  She got off and anchored til the next day when the tide was up.  We just traveled 20 miles this day and anchored in a tributary before moving on to Charleston on the 1st.of June.

Charleston Trolley ride to the Maritime Center Park, Just a swingin'

Sandra and Dad with the aircraft carrier Yorktowne just off Bill's left shoulder moored at Patriot Point across the Cooper River. As you can see, Another Beautiful Day!

On the 2nd we took a combo Magnolia Plantation/City Tour. The Plantation portion was fascinating. Over 600 acres of rice paddies, fresh and brackish water ponds, teeming with alligators, ducks, birds, turtles, cypress trees and formal gardens with paths.As with all these old places, it used to be more than 2000 acres,  The following pics are from that portion. The peacocks wanted to have lunch with us.

Hundred years ago this plank was placed. 

Small alligator on the ramp, both trees rookeries for the water birds.

City Tour was informative.

These houses were shops on the bottom with proprietors quarters above. All different colors dating back centuries.

Lovely handmade wrought ironwork.

Bill and I shared a supper - Shrimp and Grits, a must have when in Georgia and South Carolina. Delicious, a little spicey but GOOD and the Grits were smooth and creamy. NOT like any other grits I have every had. 

This dinner was at the Restaurant, "Prohibition", where Mirands's boyfriend Michael manages. It is unique in many ways. Basically, an Irish Pub with a modern twist. They serve wild game also, really big here in Charleston.  The bar tenders are the best in the city and mix innumerable libations with various flavored infused spirits.  We had strawberry infused rum Mojito. Two!  Sandi figures it is a great drink for around a pool on a warm summer day. I say it is a great drink ANYTIME!!!!  Tell your friends - Prohibition is a must stop in Charleston.

Today is the 3rd of June, Sandra has left for home and we are awaiting the wind to settle before heading North up the ICW.  Myrtle Beach and Wilmington NC our next ports, with a few anchorages in between.




















3






324